Doyle Auction's Couture for a Cause

Last weekend Doyle New York opened its doors to the public, showcasing two hundred years of fashion history with nearly 500 items. The exhibit, which ran from November 12th through November 15th, was the precursor to a November 14th cocktail reception and the November 17th auction. The famed auction house presented items in the categories of haute couture, accessories, textiles, ephemera, luggage, and house wares. The first 29 lots were donated by the Mosaic Foundation and auctioned (in partnership) to benefit the Children's National Medical Center (CNMC). With a theme of West Looks East,  "each look exemplified the designers' personal homage to the rich historical influences of traditional Arab design on contemporary Western fashion. The design sketch accompanied each lot and provided collectors with the rare opportunity to acquire both facets of the couturier's creation." The collection of 29 couture gowns and ensembles first debuted during a runway show on May 12th at the Mosaic Foundation's 8th Annual Benefit Gala where First Lady Laura Bush served as Honorary Chair. Contributing designers included Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, John Galliano for Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Dominique Sirop, Elie Saab, Emanuel Ungaro, Gianfranco Ferre, Giorgio Armani, Jean-Louis Scherrer for Stephane Roland, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Ralph Rucci, Donna Karan, and Reem Acra.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

According to the website, Doyle New York, one of the world's foremost auctioneers and appraisers of fine art, jewelry, furniture, decorations and a variety of other categories, was founded in 1963. Located in New York City, the global capital of the auction market, Doyle offers approximately forty sales each year that attract a broad base of buyers and consignors from around the world. The Mosaic Foundation is a charitable and educational organization founded in Washington, D.C. by the spouses of Arab Ambassadors to the United States. Established in 1998, the Mosaic Foundation's mission is to improve the lives of women and children, while fostering cultural, educational, and professional dialogues between the peoples of the Arab world and the United States. To date, over $8 million has been awarded through the Mosaic Foundation Grants Programs to a variety of worthy organizations that support the vision of Mosaic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For over 130 years, physicians and nurses at CNMC have been working to safeguard the health of children in Washington, D.C. What started as a small hospital in the city has grown to a nationally recognized leader in pediatric medicine with satellite offices and primary care centers. CNMC is also a research facility, with hundreds of grants and studies performed each year. Their mission is to be preeminent in providing health care services that enhance the health and well being of children regionally, nationally and internationally. As part of the Tele-Medicine Initiative, CNMC and Mosaic will work together toward enhancing the quality of health care in Morocco by using telecommunications technology to improve access to basic health education and training.

I visited the exhibit on opening day to find a very sumptuous, romantic setting with colored lights and rose petals strewn about the showroom. A chaise in the front window served as a resting place for lot 40, the exquisite 19th century Chantilly lace Worth gown. When I asked curator and haute couture specialist, Clair Watson, her opinion as to why the reserve price for the museum-worthy piece had not been met at auction, she advised me that "there is a post sale bid in process [on the Worth gown] which naturally we hope will conclude satisfactorily!" Ms. Watson further explained, "Relatively speaking, the Worth for that time period was not so sought after and iconic as the Balenciaga and Dior were for theirs and it was not a Charles Frederick design but [that] of his son Jean-Philippe for which there is a lesser demand. It is a beautiful piece, no doubt about it."

 

Viewing the catalogue's 488 lots, I felt as though I'd entered my fantasy dressing room-cocktail dresses, evening gowns, furs, shoes, jewels, and luggage to pack it all away in-were absolutely divine and almost all in my size, 4! Staged across the length of the room, the charity auction items were literally the center of attention. The first display featured mostly embellished frocks with a few day separates. The second tier displayed coats, sequined boleros for evening with furs off to the right. There was a Pucci salon of house wares and menswear as well just off to the side. On the left, were fashion books, hats, shoes and a selection of Hermes bags locked in a glass case. Towards the back costume jewelry, textiles, and luggage could be found.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The November 14th cocktail party was co-hosted by Doyle CEO and Chairman Kathleen Doyle, Vice President Laura Doyle Hammam, Mosaic Foundation Chairman and President Nermin Fahmy, CNMC Chairman Diana Goldberg, and Harper's Bazaar Editor-in-Chief Glenda Bailey. I observed scores of partygoers as they inspected the garments with gloved hands and careful eyes, stopping only to take notes (a wish list, perhaps) and pose in front of the mosaic-tiled mirrors, flanking the displays. Soon after, Kathleen Doyle welcomed guests and introduced her co-sponsors. Mosaic Chairman Nermin Fahmy conveyed the Foundation's mission of hope, "It's a pleasure to welcome everyone to this elegant charitable event. Doyle and Harper's Bazaar believe in this charity and the importance of improving lives of women and children."

 

CNMC Chairman Diana Goldberg underscored this message, "Thank you to Doyle for making the preview possible. As we enjoy this lovely evening, it's hard to believe there are children suffering around the world from preventable diseases. This auction will play a significant role in broadening our reach even further. The proceeds will support a wonderful partnership... so that every child has a chance to grow up happy and healthy." Harper's Bazaar Editor-in-Chief Glenda Bailey emphasized the Couture for a Cause theme, "Enormous thanks to Doyle with special thanks to Clair. Now more than ever, the work by the Mosaic Foundation is important..."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During the cocktail reception, I met Laura Doyle Hammam and her husband, Zayd Hammam. Stunning in a Diane Von Furstenberg mosaic-inspired beaded dress (perfect for the occasion), she asked if I had my eye on any of the pieces. I remarked on how so many of the vintage items were quite lovely and luckily my size, pointing out the embroidered tulle and organdy dresses hung in front. The lovely Mrs. Doyle-Hammam commented on how I was the "perfect size for couture." Although the elegant frocks were a bit out of my price range ($2689-7170), I had also admired a slightly more affordable lot (205), a quartet of Prada shoes, also as luck would have it in my size-351/2! She agreed, though newer the ostrich pair included in the foursome would be a lovely addition to my shoe wardrobe. My favorite catalogue pieces were from the estate of Suzanne Godart Cella. The petite 50's socialite who was married to French textile importer Pierre Godart, was a designer in her own right. Mrs. Godart-Cella was known for her chic style and often graced fashion magazine covers. The auction featured 26 lots from her personal couture collection.

Those who know me well can attest to the fact that I love all things related to fashion- especially anything with a historical reference. Naturally, I was simply awestruck by lot 375, a Frederick Miller Confidential Sketch Pad, which would be quite the coup as an addition to my ever-expanding fashion and arts library. The splendid grouping of Alexandre de Paris Hairstyle Designs (lot 378) would undoubtedly compliment my fashion photographs brilliantly. As I glanced over the costume jewelry, the poetic soul yearning within me spied the most exquisite thistle brooch (lot 401), this piece would be right at home amongst my botanical-themed vintage pins. I perused the glass-encased Hermes bags and thought how fantastic it would be to upgrade my trusty staple, a 35 cm black leather Birkin, with a "more than a handbag" purchase. At a hammer price of $30,000, the crocodile Birkin with a sparkling pave closure plate and lock was the auction's highest bidding item. You can't blame a girl for dreaming; after all, it's not just a handbag, it's a Birkin!

A great lover of antiquities, vintage and finery from a more romantic period of petticoats, gloves, fine linens, carriages and the social graces that accompany them. I'm an old soul who collects embroidered linens, antique furniture, and early editions of the classics. It's no surprise that I was especially taken with lots 460-469, from the estate of Margaret Taylor Johnston. Born in the mid 1850's, the Doyle catalogue described her as a "lace maven extraordinaire". Ms. Johnston was an Honorary Fellow at the Metropolitan Museum Department of Decorative Arts and Textiles and wrote several books on lace. The lace samples from her estate range from the 15-19th centuries.

The enormously successful sale yielded nearly one million dollars, with more than ten percent going directly to the Tele-Medicine Initiative. While most of us cannot afford to bid on haute couture evening gowns or French designer handbags, I think we can all appreciate the uniqueness and historical value of the items presented for the November 17th auction. More than a huge success for Doyle New York and the winning bidders lucky enough to take home one of the prized lots, was the $134,504 raised for the CNMC. As the Harper's Bazaar Editor-in-Chief so eloquently stated, "On this evening, we're inspired to look in our hearts. It's nice to know that the beneficiaries are not only our closet, but [also] women and children. Doing good has never looked so beautiful." I couldn't agree more, Ms. Bailey!

 

Images provided courtesy of Doyle New York.